Saturday 31st - Vineyards in Martinborough

This time we were a little later waking up and as usual the LLW demanded her cup of tea before there was any question of adopting a vertical position. Another lovely morning with intense sun from sunrise. We had a leisurely hour or so at the camp site and then set off on the bikes to explore the vineyards. Whilst it was leisurely, it was a little tense as Ray was following the progress of Newcastle United vs Nottingham Forest via the BBC web site. Newcastle finally ran out 3-1 winners (sorry Rob) so the tension dissipated.

The roads around and in Martinborough are based upon a grid system which makes navigation very easy. We headed north on Dublin street then turned east on Kitchenor to the central square.

North again out of the town took us to our first planned port of call Ata Rangi vineyard which has the reputation of being one of NZ's finest wineries. Disaster - not open until 12:00!

Undeterred (and since there are about 25 vineyards within a couple of miles, we cycled off to Vynfields which has a beautiful setting and a lovely cafe/restaurant area. However, your dynamic duo agreed that the Pinot Noir on offer was not up to the Jackson standard and we departed without buying anything.

Ata Ranga (apparently this means new dawn or new start and refers to when the winemaker sold his house to finance starting the business, which is now clearly very successful) was now open so we returned and decided to taste a number of their wines - Rose, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. All were very good but the Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir stood out and we purchased a bottle of each.

The previous evening the LLW had enjoyed a glass of Palliser Sauvignon Blanc and since apparently their restaurant has a good reputation and good views, we rode off to Palliser Vineyard for lunch. And a very good choice it was too - a meat platter plus extra Gougeres washed down with Sauvignon Blanc for the LLW and Pinot Noir for Ray.

Back to the camp site for a short while and then another ride around town, this time to visit shops! Luckily the relevant shops were closed and in any case the LLW had decided that she did not have any more room in her case - phew!

Dinner was a very good steak, salad and sweet potato hash browns. Lovely to sit outside and enjoy the early evening sun. However as I write we have retreated inside the camper van; the temperature is dropping, clouds gathering and rain forecast shortly.

Martinborough has been great; its very small but a classy and obviously wealthy area now. An added bonus has been that is it delightful to cycle around and indeed cycling tours of the vineyards seems to be a major industry.

Tomorrow morning we will leave early, about 07:30 to catch the ferry from Wellington to Picton on the South Island. We are booked to stay for our first night on the South Island at Blenheim which is at the heart of the Marlborough wine area.

Friday 30th a long drive to Martinborough

A beautiful morning in Taupo and team Jackson were so well organised for an early departure that we had to wait 10 mins for reception to open. The camp site here is very well organised and run with very strict security , including a rule that everyone must wear a "smart" wristband at all times. This wristband can be used to pay for drinks etc at the famous "swim up " bar and probably several other things which we did not avail ourselves of. We were warned of dire consequences if said wristbands were not handed in and the account checked before leaving!

We drove south along Lake Taupo which is NZ's largest lake and we could not have seen it in better weather. In total contrast to yesterday which was grey and windy, resulting in a fairly rough lake, today in full sun, brilliant blue skies and very little wind so the lakes is serenely calm. One of the last things we expected to see in summer in this part of NZ was a mountain capped in snow but as you can see there is definitely snow on the upper slopes of this mountain.

I will let the photos speak for themselves but more about the mountains later

All around Taupo are adverts for fishing and it is world renowned as one of the very best places for trout fishing. The town of Turangi at the southern end of the lake seemed to be particularly fishing focussed.

We climbed after leaving the lake and the contrast in scenery was quite remarkable.  Firstly we entered the Tongariro National Park and had tremendous views of  Mount Ngauruhoe, which apparently featured as Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings films (and I think you can see why!).

Then there was the snow capped mini range comprising Te HeuHeu, Mount Ruapehu, Tahurangi and Girdlestone. What we had not expected was to then enter a desert, the Rangipo Desert, which was very barren and sandy (well I guess most deserts are sandy).

At Waiouru, we passed the NZ's army's main training base and the army museum and then suddenly all became lush and green again. A coffee stop beckoned and the usual flat whites were ordered (with cake) at a rather sad looking little cafe which clearly had at one time been a railway station on the outskirts of the small town of Taihape. Apparently Taihape is well known as the centre of Gumboot Throwing so I hope you appreciate that this blog keeps you informed about items of vital international importance.

Once through the gumboot metropolis, we experienced a series of remarkable gorges which hardly seemed to get a mention on the map but were quite spectacular.

We were now very much in the heart of NZ farmland and this continued as we turned off Route 1 at Vinegar Hill and shirted the towns of Fielding and Palmerston North heading south towards Marinborough on Route 2. At the town of Carterton signposts encouraged us to turn left to follow one of NZ'z wine trails. Now as you know I am not one to complain but this could be reported under the trade description act since until we reached the outskirts of Martinborough not a vineyard was to be seen; then suddenly they were everywhere.

The camp site was located, camper van parked and then off on our bikes for a quick tour of the vineyards. We resisted the urge to stop at several for tastings (tomorrow for that) and after a lovely ride in intense sun we settled for a glass each at the Martinborough hotel in the town's main square.  The LLW had decided that she did not want to eat out this evening and we stocked up on a few more provisions at Four Square and headed back to the site. Note: in smaller towns where there is no New World or Countdown, there is always a Four Square which is a chain (I would guess a franchise) of small to medium convenience stores of a good quality.

Whilst it was lovely to eat out, this evening it was bit of a challenge since it was hot, the evening sun was incredibly intense and our pitch did not have any shade. However, we survived and amazingly did not seen to suffer fron sunburn.

Thursday 29th at Lake Taupo

Today the weather is in sharp contrast to yesterday. During the night we could feel the temperature dropping and apparently it went as low as 8C. When we awoke it was cloudy, windy and distinctly cool.

After stocking up at the other supermarket, Countdown, we drove around the lake and stopped at Acacia Bay which we visited on our first trip to NZ and in similar weather to today.

The black swans did not seem to be deterred by the weather nor were the intrepid duo who were soon on the bikes and racing around the lake (well relatively speaking). After a few miles the LLW decided that a coffee stop was in order and we sheltered from the wind in a very nice, but busy, cafe right on the waterfront. As usual in NZ the coffee and cakes were excellent.

Back to the camp site to try out the thermal pool which was very pleasant but a bit of a shock when we emerged from the hot water (36C) into the cool wind (18C). We spent an hour or so catching up on some work and various emails and now the sun is out again and the sky is clear blue.

On our visit to Countdown this morning we has espyed very nice looking hot roasted chickens so in a few minutes we will head back to Countdown to secure our dinner. All dinner requirements now secured and beautifully served by the LLW with asparagus, boiled potatoes and a very nice Pinot Noir!

After dinner, I walked up to reception to obtain another internet voucher and encountered numerous children intent on getting to the Thermal Pool where there is a very large video screen showing children friendly films at this time. I'm not sure what is showing tonight but I did notice that one of the films over the Christmas period is the Sound of Music. Can you imagine watching the Sound of Music up to your ears in 36c thermal waters! This world never ceases to surprise me.

We are now set for a fairly early start tomorrow as we have quite a long drive to Martinborough. The camp site web page says that cycling through the vineyards and stopping for tastings is absolutely the thing to do in Martinborough - I will need no second invitation, but don't tell the LLW!

Goodnight.

Wednesday 28th December on our way to Taupo

Up bright and early since we have a fairly long drive today; firstly down the beautiful east coast of Coromandel. The plan is to pass by place where we have stopped before and to have a coffee stop in Whangamata. As always is is a lovely drive and many fine beaches are apparent, particularly around Whitianga and Tairua.

As we passed Tairua we noticed Mount Rowe to the west (obviously named after our good friends in Amberley) but we were confused that Table Mountain was adjacent - have continents changed?
 
Whangamata proved to be a very busy but very good coffee stop. After a detour around the block looking for a parking space, one magically appeared directly in front of a good looking cafe. Ray has decided that flat whites are preferable to cappuccinos or lattes having a higher coffee to milk ratio and the flat whites at this cafe were particularly good, and more so since they were accompanied by an absolutely excellent ginger slice chosen by the LLW.


Fortified we drove on down towards Tauranga and the Bay of Plenty which is well named since it is obviously very fertile and probably qualifies for the name the Garden of New Zealand. - avos and all kinds of fresh was available at the roadside.

The traffic was heavy around this area and we were pleased to turn south towards Rotorua where suddenly the traffic disappeared.  We had originally planned to stay in Rotorua but since every camp site was fully booked we decided to make do with a short stop. Ray decreed that the best way to make use of this time was to deploy the cycles and having safely parked the camper van off we cycled to explore. It turned out to be a great way to see the town and lake and we had a great time making the most of a short stop.

The black swans were there in numbers but it was in Rotorua that we saw the first sign of the recent earthquakes since the museum in the Tudor style bath rooms within Government Gardens is closed indefinitely as the building needs to be extensively surveyed for earthquake damage.

On then for another hour to Lake Taupo which we were very keen to see again since the only previous time we have been here it was grey and gloomy. we were not disappointed; clear blue skies and 27C greeted us on arrival at Taupo town.The camp site is quite enormous and includes two thermal pools one at 36C and the other at 34C. These can wait until tomorrow. the LLW needed to finish off some work so Ray took to the bike again for 30 mins.

It had been decided well in advance that this was the evening for a curry. It is clear that now there are a lot of Kiwi's of sub continent origin and Indian restaurants have popped up everywhere. We had a very good meal and strolled back to the camper van enjoying a wonderful sunset across the lake.

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Tuesday 27th December at Coromandel

I think I overate yesterday evening which is probably what caused a restless night; not helped by the NZ fire brigade once again using their sirens at about 03:45! I think a formal complaint to the Minister of Tourism is appropriate.

The day did not start well with Ray following the football on the BBC site and Newcastle lost 0-1 to Sheffield Wednesday. Not what the doctor ordered.

However, good spirits were soon restored with a cycle ride around the bay and including a couple of hills which the LLW triumphantly climbed with hardly any effort at all. A very light lunch at a café in town and we returned to the camp site where the LLW had some work to do.

The site is getting very busy and it now seems that half of Auckland has arrived in Coromandel. We watched in amazement as some campers squeezed a caravan and three large tents on to one pitch. As much as we like Coromandel, we now feel its a good idea to put some distance between us and Auckland.

Ray had another ride whilst the LLW was busy and we are now preparing for supper which is sausages, boiled potatoes, asparagus, peas and a grilled tomato. A lot of vegetables you may think but the lovely lady wife is getting carried away having deciding upon the acronym VEGGIES to help us ensure we sort everything on leaving. V for vents (to be closed), E for electric (and trailing power cord to be disconnected and stored), G for gas bottle (to be turned off),G for grill to be stored so that it doesn't rattle, I for interior to be checked so that all items are stored safely, E for exterior to be checked so that all storage lockers are closed and locked and S for folding the step into our side entrance!!

The main course feast was followed by some cheese and then the best apricots ever which were purchased from a small shop on the outskirts of town

Tomorrow we head south along the spectacular east coast of Coromandel and then on to Rotorua and Lake Taupo.

 

Monday 26th On to Coromandel

No fire engines to wake us today but we were awake early again. the minor problem facing us is how to get out of the camp site if nobody arrives at reception. All registered campers have a key card to open and close the camp site gates but sadly as late arrivals yesterday we have none!

We drove off towards the gates and the LLW was dispatched to see if there was any sign of life. In spite of no lights being visible a human being was there and upon payment of the 50% of the fee owed (50% being paid in advance) we were allowed to escape!

Diesel was needed and purchased only 2 miles away and we headed off towards Coromandel hoping to avoid the nightmare traffic of a week ago. Phew, very little traffic around Auckland and only the numerous lane changes to cope with.  By coffee time we were at the southern end of the Coromandel Peninsular and sought out a coffee emporium to partake of two flat whites and a large piece of chocolate brownie (blame the LLW for the latter).

As a matter of historical interest, the Coromandel Peninsular was named after HMS Coromandel which stopped at Coromandel Harbour in 1820 to purchase Kauri spars! This ship was itself named after the Coromandel coast in India.

We were soon in Coromandel town and having wanted to stay two nights here we had only been able to book the one. Once again the LLW was dispatched to sort this out and emerged triumphantly with a second night secured.

Camper van parked we enjoyed one of the LLW's special a tuna fish salad and the cycles were then deployed. This is perfect LLW cycling territory; hardly a hill in sight around the harbour and very little traffic. We managed about 9 miles before picking upon some provisions and replenishing the kitty in the town.

Back to the camp site before dinner in town at the Pepper Tree restaurant where we had been before. It was excellent; bruschetta and rack of lamb for the LLW and oysters and crispy pork shank for Ray. All excellent and accompanied by Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc and a superb Central Otago Pinot Noir. It would have been churlish to leave without a pudding so rhubarb crumble with white chocolate and vanilla ice cream was shared; totally calorie free we were assured.

Sunday 25th Christmas Day

We had a good nights sleep at Ahipara and awoke fairly early as usual. However, our leisurely horizon cup of tea was rudely interrupted by the local Fire Brigade driving all around the town, including through the camps site, with their sirens blaring! It would appear that this is their idea of how to wish every one a Merry Christmas - but is what quite alarming. I thought for a moment that it was a Tsunami alarm.

Drama over we left early and headed south east to our ferry crossing from Rangiora to Rawene which crosses the Hokianga Harbour. This saves a long detour and whilst we had to wait a while we were pleased to have it confirmed that the ferry operated on Christmas Day. This is probably the longest days drive of our holiday and we did not want to drive the long way round if at all possible.

The drive along the harbour was lovely and when we reached the mouth at Opononi and Omapere the views were stunning, particularly of the massive sand dunes on the northern side.

On down the west coast stopping briefly to observe the giant Kauri trees in the jungle like Waipoua forest; all very spectacular. The vegetation is so dense that there does not seem to be an inch of ground visible.

I thought you would like the example of Kiwi humour, or perhaps more correctly Kiwi philosophy, on the side of the Jucy camper van. If you find it hard to read it says The glass is half full - and the other half was delicious.

 On though Dargaville  and Ruawai we finally headed east to join the east coast highway, at Brynderwyn which I thought sounded like a Welsh Opera singer. We were now retracing our steps down the east side until we headed off the highway to the coast via the very fashionable resort of Orewa which is ~40Km north of Auckland. We had tried to book the Top Ten camp site at Orewa but it was fully booked, not entirely surprising on Christmas Day, so drove another few miles to Red Beach where we had successfully booked. Arriving at about 16:00 there was nobody at reception and relied upon a fellow camper to direct us to what would appear be be our pitch.

Off went for what turned out to be a fairly short cycle ride as the LLW decreed that the hills surrounding the resort were far too steep to even contemplate.

Back a the camp site the LLW conjured up and excellent Christmas dinner of honeyed chicken asparagus, tomatoes and sauted potatoes. All very good and washed down with an excellent Oyster Bay, Rose fizz.

Christmas Eve - On our way to the West Coast via KeriKeri

Up bright and early to catch the ferry from Okiato to  Opua as we have said we will be at the cycle repair shop in KeriKeri by 09:00. We arrived at the ferry just before 08:00 to see it just leaving for Opua but no worries it will be back in 10 mins. Another stunningly beautiful morning with full sun and a clear blue sky. The drive down to the ferry was lovely and so was the crossing.

Note the Christmas trees on the masts of the ferries.

Once on the other side the road was very good and we sped north through Pahia and on to our destination, even having time to fill up with diesel on the way. Hunter Cycles were open and working away when we arrived just before 9 and Chris and his (much younger) boss were absolutely charming, very knowledgable and downright efficient. Within 20 minutes, the bike was repaired, road tested and returned so that it was working better than ever. A quick phone call to Natural High to approve the cost and we were on our way. Fantastic service and we were delighted that we had chosen to use Hunter Cycles to repair the bike.

A footnote here on older people working here in NZ. One of the lady ferry attendants was clearly of retirement age and we had the impression that she had returned to work in a new role. The same was true of Chris at Hunter Cycles; again well into retirement age but was effectively learning a new trade. Already very expert he did however refer to his younger boss ( and owner of the business?) on several occasions just to check he was right. In both cases they were charming, good humoured and very professional.

A coffee and cake was partaken and then the next job was to visit the New World supermarket nearby to replenish our provisions; particularly since many stores will be closed on Christmas Day and some on Boxing Day.

New World was very busy as one would expect on Christmas Eve but after about 10 minutes I began to feel like Theresa May. Now that has stopped you in your tracks hasn't it?

Let me explain; our illustrious PM is well known to have ongoing problems with our Foreign Secretary Boris Johnson in keeping Boris "on message".  I fully sympathised with Mrs May since keeping the LLW on message in a supermarket ( or for that case any shop) is impossible. In spite of having a reasonably well thought out shopping list, the LLW continued to disappear down aisles, seemingly at random, and reappearing with something neither of us had thought about! Definitely not on message. I may rename her Boris for a few days but on the other hand that might be a step too far.

Having more than replenished supplies we had a look around the KeriKeri inlet and then decided to head for the west coast. The drive up the east coast was awesome ( I believe that is the first use of the famous Kiwi superlative this holiday) and in particular Doubtless Bay was gorgeous. Apparently Captain Cook sailed by here in 1769 and unable to enter as a result of very bad weather, he noted in his journal that this was "doubtless a bay".

A quick detour through the village of Mangorui at the southern end of the bay and then back to the main highway.

We stopped for a quick but delicious sandwich lunch (courtesy of the LLW)  at Cable Bay within Doubtless and then headed for the west coast.

 Arriving at the west coast we firstly headed for Waipapakauri Beach where there was a camp site. This is towards the southern end of the famous 90 mile beach and as you can see the beach and sea were quite amazing. However, the camp site was deemed too remote and not quite up to standard so we drove on to the local metropolis Kaitaia.

To our great surprise the local information office was still open at 15:00 in Kaitaia and a very helpful lady quickly booked us in to a camp site at the very southern end of 90 mile beach at Ahipara.  A 10 minute drive and were there and what a wonderful site it is. Our pitch is surrounded by Agapanthus, Bougainvillea and Canna Lilies; just terrific.

The newly repaired bike was quickly deployed and we decided to emulate the 4x4s and the many coach trips in riding along the sands of 90 mile beach. As you can see the LLW was quickly into her stride but unfortunately had forgotten that the very strong wind was from the south west and heading north with the wind behind her was very soon miles away. Ray tried to warn her that it was much harder cycling south against the wind but too late she was gone! eventually she returned, fairly exhausted and decreed that it was time for Christmas Eve dinner.

At New World we had purchased two good looking T-Bone steaks and a good bottle of NZ Pinot Noir and soon we were dining in our lovely outdoor dining room (with bikes in the background). Yet another wonderful day in this beautiful country.

As a footnote, we have noticed on this trip that the formerly ubiquitous "no problems" has been largely replaced by "you are very welcome".  I may be old fashioned but this seems to me to be much more appropriate and more pleasant.

We wish you all a very Merry Christmas