Tuesday 31st: Gisborne

 The two nights in Hastings proved to be a big success. The sun shone most of the time, its was warm and no rain in sight.

Ray had a good ride through the vineyards and even managed a couple of short but steep hills.

The weather and traffic updates were consulted and it seems that the worst of the weather has now moved to Northland. The decision was taken to drive further north up the east coast and we have booked for two nights in Gisborne, or Gizzie to the locals. The drive was slow in parts with some windy roads up and down mountains. We stopped in Wairoa for our customary flat whites. It was unusual as there seemed to be a total absence of tourists, apart from us.

We settled in to our sea front camp site and whilst fairly cloudy, it is very warm. Ray went off for a cycle ride and found the statue to Captain Cook who made his first landfall in NZ at Gizzie. Ray was also instructed to check out the propose dinner venue - an Indian restaurant named Bollywood Star.

The restaurant was pronounced suitable and we had a walk along the seafront before enjoying a very good meal. The LLW was particularly impressed by the Okra and Peshawari Naan

We will continue to review the traffic and weather updates but currently plan to spend another 6/7 days south of Auckland before making the journey to Northland.

Sunday 29th: Hastings - a Monsoon!

 It was certainly a good idea to have a cycle ride on Friday as it started raining shortly after I returned to the camp site. This was not any rain, it was sub tropical rain and we heard about the flooding in Auckland, and  realised that this was coming our way. I'm sure you will all have seen the reports of the dreadful flooding in Auckland but the rainfall was quite extraordinary. They experienced 26.7 cm (10.5 inches in old money) of rain in 24 hours which is the highest quantity ever experienced in NZ. This is even more extraordinary since parts of Fjordland (around Te Anau and Manapouri on the west coast of the south island are amongst the wettest places on earth.

To put it in context with West Sussex, Amberley's wettest month is November and the average rainfall for November is 11cm or 4.3 inches. Auckland experienced 2.5 times that amount in one day.

Very sadly lives have been lost and a national emergency has been declared.

There was no alternative but to hunker down and we were, and are, very comfortable in our Motor Home. Hawkes Bay is known to have the best overall climate in NZ so I guess we are in a good place. It rained, rained and rained - not just torrential but monsoon like. The biggest issue was that the camp site was becoming waterlogged and Ray was becoming concerned about our ability to drive the Motor Home out.

Regular checks were made on the weather, and the roads, and we concluded that it was sensible to stay a few more days in the area. However, we decided to move to another site in Hastings 20 minutes south of Napier where there is a good site in parklands and which is very close to the centre and therefore all of the facilities. Our site north of Napier is a good one, but it is very close to the beach and exposed to Pacific weather.

Ray studied the forecast and rain was predicted to stop around 3 am with a much brighter morning. The decision was taken to leave about 09:30 which would have given a few hours for water to drain away. When awoke, we were very surprised at how much had drained away and getting out looked promising.

After extensive consultation with some charming and very helpful Maori ladies, it was decided that the best option was to reverse out across 30/40 feet of fairly waterlogged grass. Ray had little choice but to agree to execute the plan and the LLW joined the Maori ladies in pointing and shouting as the 8M long and very heavy Motor Home lumbered backwards. Miraculously it worked and Cara was soon on terra firma. We waved goodbye to our new found Maori friends and tentatively headed out on the the Napier/Hastings expressway to travel the few miles south.  We had heard horror stories about the state of the roads but this particular road was in excellent condition, in spite of considerable flooding in the fields to either side, it was clear of water apart from one roundabout which had one lane closed.

In no time at all we were in Hastings and first port of call was Countdown to stock up for a day or so. The restocking was quickly completed and dinner tonight is roast chicken with a very nice pinot noir. The camp site was only 5 minutes away and as you can see it looks very serene. We had a short cycle ride through the park and are now settled down with an aperitif.

I will report tomorrow on the weather outlook and what our plans are next!

Friday 27th: Napier

Yesterday we left Martinborough for the 150 mile journey to Napier and whilst comparatively lengthy it was probably the easiest day's drive we have had so far in NZ. Very little in the way of steep, windy ascents and descents and plenty of long straight roads through lush farming territory. The biggest problem we faced en route was to find a parking space for the Motor Home at Pahiatua where we decided to stop for coffee. The LLW pronounced that, parking in an angled bay to the road, we were just far enough off the road to meet with her exacting standards. Pahiatua is a reasonably sized town, but is quite remote, and we were intrigued to discover that the coffee shop is run by Thai people who have clearly perfected NZ flat whites.

When we approached Napier we took a short detour to Hastings and Havelock North where on our last visit to the area in 2011, we were greeted by fabulous displays of Agapanthus and Jacaranda trees.  Sadly, on this occasion, the Agatha's were past their best and there was no sign of a single Jacaranda in bloom. Ray checked his photo archive and when we visited in 2011, it was also in January but about 2 weeks earlier. For the record, the photo below is one taken in 2011.

Before we located our camp site we stopped at New World in Napier to replenish our larder. The overnight stop is the Top 10 camp site at Bay View just to the north of Napier and toute de suite the BBQ was in action for some Italian style sausages accompanied by excellent Hawke's Bay Merlot.

The next morning the weather was clearly deteriorating and whilst still warm 22/23C it was clear that rain is on the way. Consequently Ray decided on a ride straight after breakfast and to cycle to Napier and back (~15 miles). Shortly after leaving the camp site, Ray encountered a fellow cyclist who stopped and asked where he was going. We are both travelling in the same direction for a few miles so became cycling buddies for that time. His name is Rob and he is a retired builder riding an e mountain bike. Born in NZ his father's family were from Norway and Sweden and his mother's from Scotland and England. We spent a pleasant ~20 minutes together until he headed off to a suburb of Napier to check on a building site for a friend, and to assess if tarpaulins were needed to protect it from the forecast rain.

The map below was photographed from out side the i-Site (tourist information offices) in Napier and shows the route as part of the Hawkes Bay cycling network.

The route went along the seafront and then via marinas and the main port of Napier around Bluff Hill and then south to the centre of Napier which is know as the Art Deco capital since it was rebuilt in that style following an awful earthquake in 1930.

Ray watched the world go by for a few minutes before starting the ride back to the camp site. This was much harder, since the wind had freshened, was now a northerly and therefore a headwind for most of the return journey. As I cycled past the marina there was a sailing class under way with lots of children in Optimists which are seen all over the world.

When I reached the camp site the LLW decided it was coffee time and had discovered that there was a cafe onsite - perfect!.

Given the forecast we decided to spend the afternoon doing some chores and catching up with admin. Not very exciting but necessary when away for 9 weeks.

Wednesday 25th: Martinborough

After three days in edgy and buzzy Welly, it was nice to arrive in Martinborough which is a quiet but very pleasant wine town. On the way we negotiated the tricky Rimutaka pass on route 2 which leads to the small town of Featherstone. We have memories of driving over this pass one New Year's day when there were gale force winds, horizontal rain and the motor home at that time shook violently as we turned each corner. It was quiet eerie as there was hardly any other traffic on the road that day and we felt very isolated. None of that weather this year but it is still quite a hard drive.

Martinborough has lovely and very safe cycling territory so Ray was happy to potter around the lanes and vineyards. 

There was a very exciting event today when Ray attended a 2 hour Governor Support training session, via Zoom, run by the LA starting at 07:00 NZ time on Wednesday 25th which was 18:00 UK time on Tuesday 24th. The technology performed faultlessly and afterwards there was an even more exciting event as NUFC played Southampton in the first leg of the League Cup semi final. In a tight game the Magpies scored late in the game and once again kept a clean sheet so a 1-0 advantage is taken to the return leg at St James' Park on 31st January.

Afterwards we enjoyed a lovely lunch at Poppies vineyard which we think is new since our last visit to Martinborough. Poppies seems to have cornered the market in vineyard lunches, it was very busy on all three days we have been here and we needed to book. We cycled there and back but the LLW was insistent that we take the shortest route and particularly on the way back after Ray was allowed two glasses of Pinot Noir.

Tomorrow we start heading north again and the current plan is to stay for a couple of nights at Napier on the east coast. It is a fairly long drive and expected to take ~ 4 hours 

Sunday 22nd: Wellington

Uber proved to be very efficient and inexpensive for the trip into, and back from, Wellington on Saturday. They offered various options including the use of an electric scooter which did not appeal to the LLW. We had a good wander around the city and experienced why Wellington is known as the windy city whilst having a beer at a waterfront bar. Ray later discovered that Wellington is officially the windiest city on the planet based upon average wind speeds.

Supper was at a good pizza, and very popular, restaurant on the corner of Cuba Street which is at the heart of Wellington's cafe and restaurant scene. Later Sadie informed us that, currently,  this is one of the in places to eat in Welly.

Sunday morning was initially dominated by Ray checking the online commentary on the Crystal Palace vs Newcastle United game. In spite of dominating the game, unfortunately the Mighty Magpies could not get a goal so it finished 0-0. There was some initial disappointment but the LLW reminded Ray that being 3rd in the Premiership, with 39 points already and, along with Arsenal, having lost only 1 game all season, and having the fewest goals against of any team in the league, NUFC have done very well this season. I don't expect that many of you will have known that the LLW is such an expert on football.

After the football excitement, Ray cycled off along the Hutt valley with the river to his left and cycling upstream with a light headwind. Knowing that I would be returning along the same track, it is encouraging to know that it will be easier coming back (providing that the wind does not change direction with the tide!). 

  

Ray had thoughts of reaching Upper Hutt a city higher up the river but having cycled about 7 miles the signpost below was encountered and Ray decided that adding another 14 miles to the ride was a step, or should I say, a cycle too far.

After a short rest, we summoned Mr Uber, who arrived almost too quickly, and we were driven into Welly to meet with Sadie and Ash. We had arranged to meet outside the TSB Arena which is on the waterfront in the centre of Welly. No sooner had Mr Uber deposited us than Sadie and Ash arrived and after a short discussion we sat down at a waterside bar for a drink. Luckily, the wind in Welly was much lighter than yesterday and it was pleasantly warm. After a quick drink, or two, we walked off towards Cuba Street to find an Asian restaurant. Being Sunday evening we knew that lots of restaurants would be closed and even more so since tomorrow Monday is a public holiday being Welly's anniversary day. The area is full of restaurants and cafes of all types and after checking out a couple, which were recommended but closed, we came across a Malaysian restaurant which was newly opened but already busy. We had an excellent meal with huge portions of each dish. We spent a lovely few hours with Sadie and Ash and learned that they are planning to relocate to the UK in Spring 2024.

Welly is still a very "edgy" city and has a strong bohemian feel about it. Sadie explained that the city is big on equality and diversity, even to the extent that the little green person indicator at pedestrian crossings appears in a number of guises. After this being mentioned we examined the next green light and discovered it was a depiction of a drag queen! How very Welly!

Friday 20th; On to the North Island

Today is a big day in our NZ journey as we cross from the South Inland to the North, via the Cook Strait, on the Interislander ferry. The Cook Strait is notorious for high winds and rough seas, which we have experienced previously and Wellington is, for good reason, known as the windy city. However, Friday dawned bright and sunny with not a breath of wind. The LLW was much relieved and after emptying the grey water and refilling the fresh water we left our camp site for the very short journey to the ferry terminal. We were directed to a lane with countless Motor Homes in it and more quickly followed in behind us.

Being NZ, there was a pop up coffee shop in the queueing area operated by a rather "off the wall" young man who prepared excellent flat whites.

The ferry, Aratere, was about 20 minutes late in leaving Picton but we were soon greeted with awesome views in all directions. We spent 30 minutes or so on deck until the ship exited Marlborough Sounds, and neither of us could stand any more sun!

We had decided to book the Premier Lounge for the crossing which we had used on one previous occasion and that time we were disappointed with the food and service. However, it does provide a very comfortable and quiet place to spend the 3 1/2 hours which is usually needed to cross the Cook Strait.

The Premier Lounge has undergone a major transformation and we were greeted very cordially upon entering and were surprised at the luxury furniture and wide range of food and drinks. Since we had spent some time on deck, we had apparently missed the morning coffee and cakes, but were advised that lunch was to be served in 15 minutes.  It was a excellent lunch with salmon, ham and a variety of vegetables and salads, plus whatever you wanted to drink. We turned down all offers of wine or champagne and stuck to mineral water and orange juice. Cakes with cream or ice cream followed and the service was excellent - efficient, friendly and humorous without any hint of obsequiousness (which Ray hates). 

We were delighted we had chosen this option and must congratulate Interislander on getting it spot on. Our journey to the camp site was meant to be a quick one but we managed to take a wrong turn which took us up a very narrow, steep and windy road which seemed to be heading to the hills with no way out. Ray, rather bravely, decided to attempt a 5 point turn opposite a quarry. This was completed with the minimum of fuss but not to be recommended in an 8 metre long vehicle. 

Once settled at the camp site, Ray decided to visit reception and enquire about transport options to and from the centre of Wellington. We plan to visit tomorrow and again on Sunday when we will meet Sadie O'Rourke (the daughter of the late Charlie who was my colleague, and very good friend Charlie) and her partner Ashley. Sadie has been living in NZ for about 6 years and is well established in hospitality management. 

The news from reception was not good. There are severe shortages of drivers and most buses and trains are operating to weekend schedules and the others have been cancelled. Unfortunately one of the buses cancelled was the one from near our camp site to the centre. However, after much discussion about possible options the conclusion was that Uber provided the best service and at a reasonable price. I downloaded the App ( I have not used Uber for some time) and was pleasantly surprised to discover that they are able to pick us up, either at the camp site, or in Wellington with only ~ 5 minutes wait. We will report on the efficiency of Uber when we have checked them out. 

It is interesting to discover that NZ is experiencing worse problems than the UK with staff shortages and, since we last visited 4 years ago, has become significantly more expensive than the UK whilst previously it had been less expensive.

Thursday 19th: Picton

 We left Nelson relatively early and started the long climb , over the Richmond Range on Route 6, towards Havelock and then on to Picton. The first section was hard driving and slow but the road straightened out after we reached Pelorus Bridge and swifter progress was then made to Havelock. Definitely time for a coffee and look where we stopped?

After an arduous start to the journey, Team Jackson decided, unanimously, to take the easier route for the second half and proceeded through the vineyards of Marlborough which must be amongst the largest vineyards in the world. The second half of the journey in miles was completed in probably 25% of the time of the first half.

Soon we were settled in our camp site and whilst the LLW checked that all of her men where still in their boxes, Ray cycled off to explore Picton and the bay. It was glorious weather and as you can see the waterfront is very attractive.

The LLW decided it was appropriate to eat out tonight so we walked through the marina, over the very steep pedestrian bridge, and into the centre of Picton where there seemed to be a variety of restaurant. There were a lots of restaurants but many of them were closed on Wednesday evenings and several others had reserved signs on the tables. However, we found a table at Cafe Cortado and, in spite of dire warnings about how long it would take for us to be served we received our order of fish and chips within 15 minutes. It was very good with the whitest fish you could imagine. The food was good but the organisation and service left a lot to be desired. Ray remarked that it was an NZ version of Fawlty Towers with a young German waiter doing a credible impression of Manuel.

The first task the next morning (Thursday 19th) was to restock our food supplies with a visit to a supermarket. During his cycle ride yesterday Ray identified the location of   food outlets and Picton, being a small town, only seemed to have two, Four Square which is more of a convenience store and Fresh Choice which is an upmarket, Waitrose type supermarket. No prizes for guessing which one we selected.

Now most people would consider visiting a supermarket to be fairly mundane chore. However, when needing a parking space for an 8 metre Motor Home it is never straightforward. Our Motor Home is called a Carado (we have nickname it Cara which is Irish for friend and was used in Ray's company - Solcara). Cara has a very long overhang from the rear wheels (about 1/3 of the total length), so the trick to parking Cara is to find a parking space, which can be reversed into, and which has a grassy verge or path at the rear. We have a reversing camera on Cara but it doesn't deal very well with two bikes on the rack at the rear. The LLW is quite pernickety about the right space and after a couple of attempts Ray found a space which met her exacting requirements. Fresh Choice was very good and, quickly, we found all we needed.

The next item on the agenda was a drive along the Marlborough Sounds to Waikawa and Whatamango Bay. This had been identified as a good route to enjoy views of the sounds but we were not prepared for quite such stunning views, particularly those from Karaka Point.

The Interislander Ferry passed whilst we were there on its way to dock at Picton and we shall be on that ferry when it leaves Picton at 11:00 tomorrow. I think the photos are quite good but photos can never do justice to the incredible blue of the sea, the dark green of the vegetation beyond and the much paler blue of the sky above.

A few admin tasks this afternoon and then rack of lamb on the barbie, with a well chosen Central Otago Pino Noir! The next post will be from the North Island and from the nation's capital Wellington.

Tuesday 17th: Nelson

We left Motueka fairly early this morning and planned to stay the next night at Richmond which is very close to Nelson but we had our doubts about a suitable camp site so reserved judgement until we arrived there.

Motueka is another place we are sad to leave, not to mention the beach at Little Kaiteriteri which has had numerous mentions.

Sorry to make all of our friends in the UK envious but it is another glorious day with clear blue skies and a high of 22C forecast.

It is a short journey today and if we take the direct route it should only take 40/45 minutes.  However, Ray decided that the scenic route was the right way to go and to visit Ruby Bay, Mapua, Rabbit Island and Best Island on route to Richmond. 

Ruby Bay and Mapua were lovely and the views across to the Abel Tasman National Park were awesome, as the locals say.  Mapua is the location for a small ferry which links the mainland with Rabbit Island and which is only for cyclists and pedestrians. It is part of the Great Taste Trail which stretches for over 200Km and covers coastal and rural areas. 

We drove on a few more miles and crossed the bridge to Rabbit Island which was definitely awesome and reminded us of the south of France or perhaps the west coast of France. Lots of pine trees and probably the biggest sand beach we have ever seen which seems to stretch for several miles in both directions. 

After Rabbit Island, Best Island was a disappointment and definitely did not live up to its name. It was pleasant enough but did not compare to Rabbit Island. 

On we went to Richmond and the LLW was not impressed by either of the camp sites so we had a coffee and a cake and then drove on to Nelson where we know there is a good site. No sooner had we checked in but the LLW decided that Ray should cycle to the shops to procure food for this evening's BBQ. I think she has gone all green and wants to minimise our use of diesel! The errand was completed and then Ray settled down to the joys of finalising Ciallco's Q4 VAT return. That is now completed and we can settle down to the BBQ which features pork chops!

Monday 16th Motueka

 The weather has been brilliant since we arrived in Motueka. Clear blue skies and 21/22C which in typical NZ fashion feels 27/28.

Given the success of the previous swim at Little Kaiteriteri the LLW decided we should head there again after breakfast. At that time of the morning it was a little cooler but the sea was still very warm and we almost had the beach to ourselves. Again it was delightful.

On our way back to Motueka we stopped at a fruit stall to replenish our stock (the area around Motueka is the major fruit growing area in the northern part of the south island). The LLW also purchased two very large ice creams which took some time to consume, and certainly could not be eaten whilst driving. We also stopped at Countdown to stock up on some basics and to buy some food for the BBQ this evening. Chicken thighs and pork meatballs were selected.

After a light lunch the LLW had some work to do so Ray set off on a cycle ride along the seafront and bisecting two parts of a beautifully manicured golf course which includes scores of lovely trees.

Monday dawned -yes you have guessed it bright and sunny again! A lazy morning and then Ray went for another cycle ride and afterwards we could not resist driving back to Little Kaiteriteri for another swim in the sparkling Tasman Sea.

As you can see from the photo below, we have a very good pitch for our Motor Home but tomorrow we must leave Motueka and head towards Picton in readiness for the ferry to the North Island on Friday.

Saturday 14th Motueka

 As we left Hanmer Springs the views were spectacular and the weather forecast was for clouds to lift and the sun to dominate. Before we left the town refuelling was needed as today we drive many miles where there are no diesel or petrol stations. One thing we have noticed since our last trip to NZ is the predominance of self service diesel/petrol stations which are open 24x7 and have no staff in attendance. NZ is way ahead of the UK in this respect and I think we shall see a lot more self service outlets in future.

We travelled down the short road to join route 7 and once again crossed the precipitous bridge which does feel quite fragile. However, seeing some of the huge lorries and trailers, that are commonplace in NZ, cross the bridge proves otherwise.

We drove west along the Waiau Uwha river valley and soon climbed the Lewis pass turning northwards. Driving was not quick and whilst the Motor Home is easy to drive, negotiating steep inclines and descents with multiple u-bends requires caution and concentration. The scenery was spectacular throughout the drive and we stopped for the regulation coffee and cakes at Murchison which is over half way along our route. As ever the coffee shop was packed, excellent but expensive. There were lots of families and couples having breakfast there which seems to be the norm in NZ. The LLW was horrified to see the price of eggs on toast was $15 which is about £8. Probably not expensive for hotels but for an isolated small town in rural NZ it seems a lot. After 18 days now in NZ, we have concluded that food here is now more expensive than in the UK. Not only that but they are experiencing the same shortages of staff as we are in Europe.

On we went after Murchison with the LLW taking over as driver for this section. We had planned to head to Richmond but Ray suggested that we might think about going to Motueka instead. The debate was fierce and required parking the Motor Home before proceeding. The weather ahead was looking good so a unanimous decision was taken to head to Motueka and the coast near Abel Tasman.

It proved to be a great decision as the sun came out and the temperature rose. We checked that the camp site in Motueka had plenty vacancies and headed further along the coast to Kaiteriteri which is the most beautiful seaside resort. It was busy which was to be expected on a Saturday in mid summer and in the school holiday. Parking an 8 metre Motor Home was Impossible. However, we had a cunning plan! A short distance from Kaiteriteri is Little Kaiteriteri which is problem even more beautiful, is surrounded by expensive houses and has not hotels or camp sites.

The result is that there is usually somewhere to park a Motor Home and so it proved. We parked a few yards from the beach and Ray decided immediately that a swim was  in order. The LLW was unconvinced but after a little while agreed to join Ray with a dip in the Tasman Sea. It was wonderful, a perfect temperature, crystal clear water and views to die for across the bay. We resolved that we would visit again before we leave Motueka.

We travelled back the few miles to Motueka town located our campsite and in true English fashion had a cup of tea. The LLW was delighted to discover that our pitch was beneath a Silk Tree.

We have decided to eat out tonight, we reviewed the list of local restaurants and chose a Thai restaurant named Chokdee Motueka which was 0.5 km walk from our site. It proved to be excellent and we thoroughly enjoyed our meal.