Tuesday 11th back on the ferry

The quest for dinner yesterday evening proved to be a difficult one! The Brasserie whose web site said it was open had a notice on the door saying Ferme Exceptionelle. A further two were open but only for drinks and after sitting down at a rather strange place called Dolly’s we decided it was not for us. We were informed by the waiter at one of the Brasseries that Le Bouchon du Vaugueux was definite open and we found it fairly quickly. We turned out to be the only customers but were served a good tagine and desserts. Monday night in Caen is not a lively time!

We awake at the appointed hour and discovered that our car was blocked in which was something we had been concerned about as it was a small car park. Reception was closed but the LLW located an employee who quickly called the boss and luckily he had the keys to the offending vehicle and it was swiftly moved to let us out.

It was a change to be driving in the dark and exiting Caen was quite tricky but once out of the City it was an easy drive to the ferry port at Ouistreham. The ferry left on time and we quickly located the restaurant for breakfast. A lovely sunny morning as we left France but soon it clouded over and the forecast suggests it will be similar when we arrive at Portsmouth. After almost two weeks of near perfect weather we can hardly complain

Monday 11th September - our last full day in France

We left Noirmoutier early at 07:30 for our longest drive in France. The destination has changed to Caen since the LLW needs to minimise the time without internet access. The hotel we have booked in Caen is very central and in a good position to get to the ferry quickly in the morning.

A stressless journey and just after 12:00 we were approaching Caen and with the help of the SatNav easily found our way to Hotel Le Dauphin and Le Spa du Prieure; quite a mouthful.

A cycle ride was in order whilst the LLW danced with her documents! The centre of Caen is very attractive but on this occasion was in a bit of a mess because the powers that be have dug up most of the roads in the centre to lay new cables and drains. It certainly made cycling very difficult but it was good ride along the river Orne, part of the Caen/Oustreham canal and even alongside the racecourse.

Time to think about dinner and as is often the case, Monday is a day when lots of restaurants are closed. However, brasseries are usual open and one within reasonable walking distance has been identified. Will let you know later how good it was!

Sunday 9th September - cycling around Noirmoutier

Yet another glorious morning and after a leisurely breakfast we drove toward Noirmoutier, the plan being to park in the very large car park on the outskirts of town and cycle around the northern end of the island. As we approached it was clear that Noirmoutier would be very busy today and the car park was filling very quickly. Nevertheless, we found a space, unloaded the bikes and off we rode. There is a market in town today and a very popular one at that. We wandered around and marvelled at the fresh produce and fantastic displays of fish and seafood which never cease to amaze us when we visit France.

Soon the crowds became too much and we cycled along a very long straight track, parallel to one of the many inlets of the sea with a fairly precipitous drop on our right hand side. Made even greater since it was low tide.

As we approached the sea front, it became obvious that there was something else happening in Noirmoutier today. There were lots of people walking down to the beach and cars parked everywhere. We went off to investigate and discovered that it was palourdes season. Hundreds and perhaps even a thousand or so were on the beach digging for clams

After the Palourdes fest we cycled anticlockwise around the island passing numerous camp sites and cars parked everywhere. Beach after glorious beach appeared and was left behind until the LLW insisted on coffee time and we stopped at Le Plage de Mardi Gras. As you can see and in spite of the large number of people on the island, and temperatures of 25C, the beaches were hardly crowded.

Another 40 mins or so of cycling took us to the village of L'Herbaudier at the very north western tip of the island and a small restaurant was found specialising in Moules frites and excellent the moules were too! We cycled back to Noirmoutiers via a dedicated cycle track which passed through open countryside and hundreds of the salt lakes which so typify the islands off the western coast of France.

It has been an excellent ride and we found the car park quite easily and clearly many of the market goers and palourdes hunters had retreated to whence they came. Back to the apartment for a short while and a chance to catch up on the cricket before driving down to one of the local beaches for a swim which was perfect.

One thing we have not mentioned is the preponderance of Camper Vans! Having used a Camper Van on a number of occasions in New Zealand we thought that NZ was prime territory for said vehicles. How wrong we were. The west coast of France probably has the highest concentration of Camper Vans in the world. Just down the road from our studio apartments is what appears to be the world's largest dedicated Camper Van camp site. So popular that queues form early afternoon of hopeful happy campers waiting for a possible vacancy.

Driving back to the apartment the LLW managed to find a boulangerie patisserie and a small Spar to procure some essentials for dinner. Amazing early on a Sunday evening in France.

Tomorrow we start heading homewards in earnest.  A 4 hour drive to Bayeux where we will stop for a couple of hours and then on for a further 40 minutes to Caen where we are booked in to a Priory Hotel in the centre of the city. This should be good for a quick 9 mile journey to Ouistreham and our ferry back to Portsmouth.

It has been an excellent trip and we have loved every minute of it. The weather has been fantastic and indeed we both agreed that 2018 has been the best ever year for holiday weather.

Saturday 8th September on to Noirmoutier en Ile

A reasonably early start from Les Gollandiers and yet again a brilliantly sunny day which started quite cool but the temperature rose rapidly. We were quickly on our way having battled with an automated 24 hour garage for our refill of petrol! Across the bridge we drove and using a number of D roads the WWN navigated very efficiently and we skirted La Rochelle and Le Roche sur Yon and in no time at all ( well to be accurate about 2 1/2 hours ) were approaching the Ile de Noirmoutier via the bridge. There are two approaches to the Ile one via the bridge and another via a causeway similar to that at Lindisfarne. We were not au fait with the tides so decide to give the causeway a miss.  As it transpired the tide was fairly low and as we crossed the bridge we could see vehicles driving along the causeway

We found our studio apartment very easily at La Gueriniere,  and Peroline Gouraud of La Conciergerie Noirmoutrine was waiting for us with keys and instructions etc. This is clearly a successful business providing meet & greet and cleaning service etc for many property owners on the island who let their properties. All very efficient.

A very nice beach style apartment with plenty of room for two nights. The LLW and I have definitely come to the conclusion that we prefer self catering which offers so much more flexibility and does not tie us to hotel restaurants and services.

We drove into Noirmoutier town on a reconnaissance mission and discovered that it was populated with very narrow roads and had no parking spaces available. We noted a large parking place about a mile out of town and resolved to return tomorrow and complete the journey on our bikes. 

We needed a few basics such as eggs, butter and milk so stopped at a Super U supermarket on the outskirts of tow. It was enormous and sold everything known to mankind; at the entrance there was even a display of bikes for sale. Inevitably the LLW went off piste and the list of basics was soon supplemented with such essentials as Pate de Fois Gras and Livarot cheese. 

Back at the apartment we had a short rest and caught up on the test match. The LLW then decided that her men needed more attention so documents were produced with gay abandon. Ray decided that he should adopt a low profile so headed off on his bike to explore the island. Within a short distance of the apartment a lovely beach perfect for swimming was discovered and we will return tomorrow.

There were lots of other beaches along the ride but unfortunately no road or track which followed the coast and all roads meandered through village with perpendicular dead end roads down to the beaches.

Now one of the failings of the otherwise efficient Concierge, Peroline was that she failed to have a map of cycle routes to hand. A black mark and now it will be necessary to visit a tourist information office tomorrow.

Purchases at the Super U included huge prawns, small but very sweet brown shrimps, baguettes, Livarot cheese and a good Tavel rose so we enjoyed an excellent supper at the apartment. Ray was very encouraged by Ben Stokes taking the wicket of Virat Kohli near to close of play.  After a typical England batting collapse, they were rescued by Buttler and Broad and with India 6 down at close of play are in a reasonable position.

Friday 7th September

Some cloud this morning but quickly clearing to be another beautiful day on the Ile de Re. Some shopping in the wonderful covered market where have been before. The displays of fish are just terrific and everything else looks just as good. No fish purchases today as we have no fridge in our room and no cooking facilities. The LLW decide that this evening we would have our supper outside in the garden just outside our window. Some contortions are required to get over the windowsill and outside but nothing too strenuous. We bought Baggettes (with poppy seeds), Rilletes d'Oie, Pate de Forestier, St Felicien cheese, cherry tomatoes and yet more fruit. Later we will purchase some wine from the supermarket.

Off then on a cycle ride to La Cuarde, through the vineyards and then across the island to the north east side and all along the sea front towards St Martin.

It was fabulous, clear blue skies great views across the see towards Loix and the mainland beyond.

We stopped at a great seafood cabana for .... Ice Cream! Such a lovely setting and obviously much enjoyed by the visitors.

On to St Martin via the fortifications and only stopping briefly to admire the view across the harbour and watch some yachts finding beats for the night.

 On the way back to Les Gollandiers, we did indeed stop at the supermarche and purchased the required one plus a few other necessities. Supper in the garden was perfect and whilst we are very sad to leave the Ile de Re, one of our very favourite destinations, we are very much looking forward to staying for two nights at Noirmoutiers where we have never been before. Apparently Noirmoutiers means black monasteries and we hope to find out why

Thursday 6th September cycling to Ars en Re

Another good day and the forecast rain did not materialise. Sunshine most of the day but a little cooler which is no bad thing.

We decided to cycle to Ars en Re where we have been many times before and it is around a 16 mile return trip from Le Bois Plage. The hardest part is navigating through the narrow streets of Le Bois Plage before picking up the cycle track through the vineyards and salt flats to Ars. I know I have mentioned it before but we are struck by the increase in cyclists this year. The route was busy but not annoyingly so although Ray was irritated by the large number of e-bikers who hurtled past us and insisted on catching and overtaking them before realising that the LLW was some way behind.

It’s not the best time of year for bird spotting but Ray did briefly see a pair of Avocets before they flew off; probably concerned at the presence of a city lawyer.

A pleasant stop in Ars by the church in the main square for coffee and a snack before returning to Le Bois Plage.

A recent development in the Ile de Re and indeed Arcachon is that the formerly basic Beach restaurants have all gone up market and not least the one by our beach at Les Gollandierswhich has the imaginative name of Le Beach Bar. The restaurant is quite large now and bookings are needed in the evening. We booked for 19:30 and had a very nice table by the window. Ray had really excellent oysters and the best steak he has had for years. The LLW likewise enjoyed her Tuna pate and Duck with nuts and celeriac. All really good.

Wednesday 5th September

We are sad to leave Arcachon and have had a lovely time here. It has been added to our list of places we must return to; the list is becoming quite large.

The LLW was very lively this morning and we left before the appointed hour. The journey to Andernos Les Bains  was slow with numerous rond points and very few glimpses of the Bassin which was disappointing. The town itself was ordinary compared to Arcachon and with no parking site obviously available we decided to carry on. There was a short stop in the outskirts for the LLW to stock up on Pain Chocolat and Reine Claude , the latter of which I had no idea that we were needing.

On then via the Bordeaux peripherique and soon we were heading north towards La Rochelle and the Ile de Re only stopping briefly for a coffee.

There had been some cloud cover when we left Arcachon but gradually it was clearing and as we crossed the bridge from La Rochelle to the island, the sun came out fully and the temperature rose to 25C. As our regular reader will know the Ile is a favoured haunt of the LLW and even her navigational skills were not tested in finding our hotel, Les Gollandiers

After deserting her men for so long, the LLW needed to catch up on emails and documents so Ray rode off solo again to La Flotte and St Martin. It was hot and St Martin in particular was crowded.

The Ile de Re has always been a great cycling place but there are more cyclists than ever this year and numerous new cycle hire shops had sprung up since last year.

Back from the cycle ride and time for a swim in the hotel's pool before finding somewhere for dinner.

Tuesday 4th September

We had originally planned to visit Andernos les Bains (further north in the Bassin d'Arcachon) today but since it is about a 2 hour return drive Ray came up with a cunning plan to visit tomorrow on our way to the Ile de Re. There is a potential major flaw in this plan because it involves leaving early, say 08:00, and as our readers are aware the LLW has been reluctant to assume a vertical position that early in the morning. We shall see

The weather continues to be sunny and hot and the sun seems very fierce at times. We are having to slightly readjust cycling plans because in the afternoons it is really is too much. This morning we both set off fairly early (in LLW terms) and cycled south along the coast to Le Moulleau and then inland through the Ville d'Hiver.

As we were approaching the Ville d'Hiver and consulting our map, to avoid the steepest route, we were approached by a gentleman from Richmond, Yorkshire, who engaged us in a conversation about how wonderful Arcachon and the surrounding area is. It is his first visit as it is ours.

Back down then to  the promenade to find a coffee and croissant boutique! Sadly they were in short supply and croissants and pain chocolate had been sold out for the day!! The LLW was not impressed and even less so when waffles were offered as an alternative, although Ray did enjoy one with honey!

Back at our hotel and a quick consultation of the tide tables shows that now was perfect for a swim in the sea. It was glorious; probably one of the best sea swims for some time. Uncrowded, clear blue skies and wonderful scenery all around.

Time to catch up on a few emails before heading off for dinner which we enjoyed again at Le Bikini,

A lovely but breezy evening which was clearly enjoyed by the Kite Surfers of which we have never seen so many. I counted 38 but there were probably 40+.

As you can see the LLW was very confused over which glass of wine she should drink next. These lawyers; always sitting on the fence. One the one hand there is the white wine and on the other hand is the red wine.

Monday 3rd around Arachon

Yet another sunny day with totally clear blue skies and 27C forecast. We had planned a swim in the sea before breakfast but had forgotten what a difference an hour makes for sunrise. Here in Arcachon (1.18W)  we are west of Rackham (0.50W)  and nearer to the Equator so at 07:00 local  time it was still dark.  Plan B involved breakfast immediately.

Rosemary’s men were demanding attention so Ray rode solo on a circular tour of Arcachon, firstly climbing through a pine forest to the Ville d’Hiver which is populated with Victorian villas which were the height of fashion at the time, fell out of favour and are now once again highly sought after. Arcachon is the first town I have come across that has 4 quartiers named after the 4 seasons.

After the fairly easy climb it was downhill through the pines to the salt flats and a detour around the area which is also populated  with oyster huts.

Back to the promenade and harbour before heading slightly inland to the boulevards Deganne and Leclerc which were close to the modern centre of Arcachon and surrounded by shops, cafes and restaurants. I cycled along the promenade and past all of wonderful beaches and found myself near to the hotel well before the appointed hour. Time for coffee at Le Bikini on the beach between our hotel and the southern end of the Plage des Abatilles (named after the spring up the hill which is the source for the local mineral water) .


Still time to spare so I headed south towards the Dune du Pilat which is apparently the highest sand dune in Europe and reminds us of some dunes we saw on our last visit to New Zealand. There was no chance that I was going to attempt to climb the dune on a bike but I did climb the road to the Corniche where there were fabulous views across to Cap Ferret and the western side of the entrance to the Bassin d’Arcachon. Very steep, not too long but certainly hard enough to push the heart rate up.

 Back then towards our hotel via the local sailing club where a Hobie Cat was being launched which reminded me of when we had a Hobie Cat, kept on the beach at Vouliagmeni when we lived in Greece

After a short rest at the hotel, the LLW was raring to go and we had decided to head to a recommended seafood cabane at the far end of town. We cycled along the promenade and due to the WWNs navigational skills quickly found said seafood emporium. La Cabane de L'aiguillon was excellent with oysters galore, huge prawns and even excellent pate for those who didn't fancy the seafood

The sunsets in the area are spectacular and we returned to Le Bikini later in the day to enjoy another display as the sun went down over Cap Ferret.

Sunday 2nd September - the ferry to Cap Ferret

Another beautiful day and we did not rush, the LLW in particular showing a marked reluctance to assume a vertical position. Today we are taking the bikes to the famous peninsular of Cap Ferret and headed for the jet at Le Moulleau about 2 miles from our hotel.

We had heard lots of stories about queues for these ferries but no problem today, the very expensive tickets were purchased and off we went across the sparkling blue waters for the short ferry trip to Cap Ferret

Due to our late start we skipped breakfast to catch the ferry so first stop was for a coffee and croissant ( pain chocolate for the LLW). The LLW was terribly happy when Ray wanted to get on with the cycling when she felt that second coffees and pain chocolate were in order. However, and after much muttering, we were on our way south past the Phare du Cap Ferret, dozens of restaurants and Oyster sellers to the southern tip of the peninsular. Clearly, evidenced by multiple Ferraris, Maseratis and Porsches,  Cap Ferret is very popular with well heeled Parisians and Bordelai (and Bordelaise to ensure I am not to be accused of sex discrimination).

After visiting the southern tip we cycled north and along the car free cycle track though the pine forest. Welcome shade was provided by the pine trees and lots of others had the same idea.

Lunch was now calling and we stopped at the Hotel Cote Sable which is another "wellness" hotel featuring healthy food. Platters of Smoked Salmon, Cured Salmon & Anchovies and Ham & Melon were served. Healthy certainly,  but the portions were huge and we struggled to finish them. Ewe had an hour of so in hand before out ferry back so cycled around more of the town and surrounding area. Lots of boutique shops but luckily few specialising in handbags or shoes.

The return Ferry goes to Arcachon which was chosen to show Rosemary the town and the wonderful beaches between it and our hotel. The ferries are very efficient and at busy times several arrive at the appointed departure time so we experience no delays. Bikes were manhandled by the crew onto the roof of the cabin and delivered back to their owner as the boat docked. I mentioned earlier that the ferries are quite expensive and the LLW declared them to be a "nice little earner" on a par with the ferry we use to transport our bikes across Chichester Harbour from Bosham Hoe to Itchenor.

Cap Ferret, Arcachon and the entire Bassin d"Arcachon are wonderful and even though we have 4 nights here, Im sure we will struggle to do it justice.

Saturday 1st September- on to Arcachon

So summer is officially over as we woke to a brilliantly sunny September morning. An early breakfast was partaken on the terrace overlooking the bays of San Sebastián and we left by 09:00 for our journey to Arcachon. We have had a lovely two days at San Sebastián and will return - both of us are keen to see it in spring/ early summer. The first part of the drive was on motorways and we soon ran up a sizeable toll bill. The LLW commented that we were missing a trick in the UK and tolls at this rate could fund the NHS!

After an hour of so we were bored with the motorway so with great trust in the LLW in her guise as the WWN, we headed off on D roads to complete our journey. Through pine forests and low lying flat terrain we drove passing through several small towns which were all very busy. In one town, Parentis-en-Born, we planned to stop for a break only to find that not one parking space was available. This has been a feature of the holiday so far and the car did not move from the hotel car park in SS for 3 reasons, we cycled, used buses and there were no vacant parking slots.

Arcachon was reached by early afternoon and our room was not yet ready so we had a very light lunch at one on the hotel restaurants close to the pool. Now our Hotel is named Hotel Les Bains d'Auguin and features a Thalassotherapy unit, prompting the LLW to remark that you can fool a lot of people a lot of the time. I did suggest she tried out the cryogenic bath (-5C) but was given short shrift.

After a walk down to the fabulous beach our room was ready and very comfortable it is too, although the LLW is not particularly impressed by the decor. I made a mental note to check out this aspect before making future bookings.

The men were being very demanding and after much debate about when the next document would be generated it was decided almost unanimously that the LLW would make a start on that immediately. Ray was sent off on a cycle ride with strict instructions to be back within 2 hours.

I cannot comment on how beautiful the document turned out but the cycle track along the seafront of the Bassin d’Arcachon was fantastic. Being a Saturday and at the end of the summer season it was busy but the beach is so extensive that it was hardly noticeable. I cycled about 10 miles along the front past the ferry jetties, around the port, through part of the town and back to the hotel. Being very abstemious I avoided all of the oysters and white wine hosteleries en route. The harbour was packed and so popular that some motor boats were  kept out of the water and stacked 3 high!

Back at the hotel, the LLW was ready to eat and after a quick shower we were early diners at the hotel’s terrace restaurant. The meal was very good and of course featured oysters for Ray and a good bottle of Sancerre.

After dinner we walked down to the beach and experience a fabulous sunset