Sunday 10th - exploring the area.

Sunday dawned cool, cloudy by dry and there was a great debate about which ride to attempt today. One under consideration was a there and back ride along both banks of the Loire. However, it was eventually agreed that this might be too long and rather exposed given the weather. Instead we decided upon one of the recommended Chateau au Velos rides through the Sologne.

After breakfast the LLW had some work to do so Ray was dispatched to procure some provisions. Knowing the LLW very well, Ray realised that said work would take longer than forecast so set off on a 9 mile ride through the Foret Domaniale de Boulogne to the village of Neuvy and then south to return to Bracieux close to the southern bank of the Beuvron river.

The LLW had hardly noticed I had gone but was soon finished with her documents and we prepared for our ride through the Sologne.

Initially we headed north towards Chambord and deep into the aforementioned Foret before turning east. Sadly we did not see any signs of the many wild boar that live in this area but the cycling was easy and once we warmed up the temperature seem quite pleasant. We turned south and through the village of Neuvry, where Ray had been a couple of hours earlier, and on to Bauzy and then east through the heart of the etangs area to Fontaines-en-Sologne. Between Bauzy and Fontaine we passed several etangs and a very elegant private chateau called the Chateau de la Raviniere.

En route we had planned to have lunch in one of these villages but sadly all were devoid of any restaurant or cafe. On our way back to Bracieux we climbed a long but slight incline and arrived at Montgenet and a very nouveau riches mansion. Ray pronounced the owner to be a Maize Magnate evidenced by the fields of sweetcorn surrounding said mansion.

Once back in Bracieux and pulled up outside the cafe du commerce to find it overrun with drivers and passengers of classic cars who were doing the 2017 Tour du Loire. The restaurant had catered for around a hundred and were not able to offer us a full meal but did produce three very good desert cakes!

After just over 19 miles we were back at our chalet and decided upon a glass of wine and some excellent cheese that we had bought the previous day. You might say that it was entirely in the wrong order to eat desert and then cheese whilst in France but we didn't care and it turned out to very good cheese. Both were goats cheeses - one tres fraiche and the other tres sec which provided an excellent contrast. The tres sec was hard and very strong and the tres fraiche milder and soft.

The LLW had some more documents to embrace so Ray was sent off on another ride this time to the Chateau of Chambord about 5.5 miles north. As I left I could have sworn that I heard the LLW singing a version of one of John Storey's songs which went something like:

"Dear Document, kiss your sisters for me so they won't feel alone

Email me and tell me how the legal fees have grown

Tell me oh tell me how the legal fees have grown"

(Legal disclaimer: The views expressed in the above blatant plagiarism of  John Storey's excellent song Dear Molly are accepted as untrue and definitely not representative of the opinions of the LLL (lovely lady lawyer))

Those of you who would like to listen to the original and much better version of Dear Molly can find it on John's excellent album More Storey Lines

Off then to Chambord and what a delightful ride through the Foret and arriving with a stunning view of this biggest and most elaborate of the Chateau of the Loire. As I stopped to admire the view I discovered that the participants in the Toure du Loire were here as well and all the cars were parked either side of the main driveway in front of the Chateau.

Back to Bracieux for a quick swim in the heated pool and then supper which was one of the LLW's holiday specials tuna fish salad. We learned that Newcastle had won 1-0 at Swansea so celebrated with another glass or so of Saumur

Saturday 9th August

We were awoken about 06:00 French time and just had time for a quick cafe creme and a croissant before heading below decks to find our car.

Disembarking was very efficient and we were soon on our way south to the Loire Valley. Having two bikes on the back we had opted for the easy option of using the autoroutes for most of the journey.  Alencon and Le Mans were quickly passed by and we then chose D roads to cut across country towards Blois. The LLW decreed that a coffee stop was required but sadly the chosen stopping off point Saint-Calais was remarkably devoid of suitable coffee shops. However, there was the most wonderful patisserie and having marvelled at the displays we settled on two pain au chocolat which were quite simply the best we have ever tasted. The LLW quickly got over her lack of coffee and waxed lyrical about aforementioned pastries.

We had plenty of time to spare so decided  upon a second stop at Vendome. We had driven past Vendome on many occasions and apart from associating it with the Place in Paris, we knew little about the town. What a revelation! It was certainly a Ville Fleury, there were numerous lovely  medieval buildings and there was a real buzz about the place. Luckily an acceptable coffee place was found and two grande cremes ordered.

On our way again and very shortly we arrived at our chalet on the outskirts of Bracieux. We knew that we were too early to check in so unloaded the bikes and off we cycled to explore the area to the west of Bracieux. We cycled along close to the northern ban of the Beuvron river and soon passed by the very grand Chateau de Villesavin and across the river to Tour-en-Sologne. The track turned south and we encountered the first of the Etanges which are strewn across the area known as the Sologne. At one junction we found a sign explaining that in the Middle Ages this track was used to drive cattle from Poitiers to Paris; not many people know that!

Through the first area and back to Bracieux we cycled through the town spotting boulangeries and restaurants before returning to Huttopia des Chateau the site of our chalet. All was ready now and we were soon settled in and sort of organised! The weather is currently mixed and not warm but better is forecast for tomorrow.

After a rest we headed into town for an evening meal and decided upon the Cafe du Commerce where we were greeted warmly by the owner and were offered an eat as much as you like buffet for €17 each. This buffet consisted of hors douvres, main course, cheese and two deserts. It was very good but we skipped the cheese as there was too much and the LLW was a bit grumpy because she was not offered any of my excellent chocolate moussse. All in all it cost us the princely sum of €45 including wine.

Now very tired we retired to our chalet and knew nothing more until 07:30 the next morning. Photos will be added later once the wi-fi is sorted out.

Friday 8th August. Off to the Portsmouth to Caen ferry

We are booked on the 22:45 overnight ferry from Portsmouth to Ouistreham which is the port that serves Caen in Normandy. It is an awful evening and the rain is lashing down. Luckily we saw the weather forecast and packed the car and loaded the bikes on the carrier in between the showers or should I say storms!

We ate an early supper as the LLW was determined to go straight to bed as soon as we boarded the ferry and found our cabin. Leaving at 20:15 gave us plenty of time to refuel the car on the way and arrive at Portsmouth on time.

It really was an awful evening and as we waited to board the ferry we watched several others who were off for a cycling holiday board the ferry looking wet and bedraggled! Or admiration went out to these intrepid travellers who were not only cycling in France but had cycled to Portsmouth in the most atrocious weather.

This is our first specific cycling holiday overseas and after much debate we agreed to go for three different centres, Bracieux, Fontevraud L'Abbe and Le Bois Plage and cycle circular routes at each place. The first two destinations are in the Loire valley and the third on the Il de Re. These were carefully chosen because a) the LLW does not like hills and b) circular routes meant if it really was an awful day we had the option of not cycling. The key was to avoid days when you had to get from A to B whatever the weather.

The ferry was boarded fairly swiftly and the LLW was soon enjoying her beauty sleep.

Sunday 23rd ride to the Maas river

The weather forecast for today is definitely mixed with rain and even some thunder and lightening predicted. However, it takes more than that to deter the determined cyclists and we set off shortly after 09:00 determined to reach a well known village called Megen on the river Maas. The weather was lovely as we set off northwards towards Megen and the cycling was easy through pleasant farming country. The Dutch have an excellent system of cycling routes and there are so many that they frequently cross one another.  One route may follow consecutive markets say from 20 to 21 etc. However, a chosen route may involve going from 21 to 47 to 18. This may sound confusing but in reality the routes are incredibly well marked and when you arrive at 21 the way to 47 or indeed 22 is made quite clear. I do hope you kept up with that explanation!

After about 7 miles we arrived at Megen and very lovely it was too. In contrast to Ravenstein there were no modern housing estates on the outskirts and we were straight into the old village. We cycled around past churches, cloisters and along the Maasdijk before the LLW decreed it was time for coffee and apple tart!

The Maas river is quite extraordinary here, wide but also with lots of offshoots and lakes. A lone sailor was doing a very good job of navigating this tricky river.

We decided to take a fairly direct route back to our hotel (Brasserie Den Handwijzer) as the weather looked to be changing. With about 3 miles to go it started raining heavily and by the time we reached the hotel, we were very wet but satisfied with a 17 mile ride which was very interesting and easy.

The Maashorst area is another paradise for LLW cycling!

After a short rest and the LLW doing some legal work we drove a short distance up the road to the venue for the final event of the weekend, a family and friends BBQ. Fascinating to experience the meeting of Greek Cypriot and Dutch cultures with a few Brits included. A great time was had by all and in spite of the inclement weather the BBQ was a big success and in true greek style the food kept coming and coming.

Saturday 22nd on to Herpen

Another lovely  morning in Damme and we were down for breakfast at 08:30 prompt! Car packed and bikes loaded on the back we were under way by 09:30 for the 3 hour journey to Herpen.

We took an A road to Antwerp and then joined motorways to Oss. Traffic was fairly light except around Antwerp and we arrived at our hotel in good time.

The party to celebrate Tiki & Nolly's 50th wedding anniversary starts at 17:00 so plenty of time for a cycle ride through the park and a visit to Ravenstein one of the older villages in the area. The centre of  Ravenstein was tricky to find as the old town is now surrounded by housing estates but was lovely once we did get there.

Back then towards our hotel but not before the LLW had insisted upon a very large ice cream at Pan & Zo which and is where the party is later. Lovely sunny weather and 25C!

Friday Cycling to Sluis and Brugge

It dawned a beautiful morning at Ter Polders and the view from our bedroom window was of pastoral calm in brilliant sunshine.

Breakfast was excellent and we were soon on our way north cycling via Oostkerke towards the town of Sluis which is just over the border in the Netherlands. Really lovely countryside and serene canals all the way to Sluis.

We have never been here before and it was simply a target town a reasonable distance away. What a revelation. Sluis is delightful and very busy and buzzy on market day.

We spent about a hour there before heading back via a slightly different route to Ter Polders. The LLW was very pleased with her 17 mile ride.

Now there was legal work to be undertaken so Ray was summarily despached to cycle to Brugge whilst said legal documents were completed. The planned meet up arrangement was that the LLW would meet Ray near the boat terminal for the Brugge to Damme paddle steamer. However, inspired by the Tour de France riders Ray completed the ride in record time and a quick text to the LLW informed her that he would be back at Ter Polders in 20 minutes.

A quick shower and then we were on our way into Brugge for a walk around. We have visited Brugge many times and it is as lovely  as ever but at this time of year it is heaving with tourists.

About an hour and a half was enough and then back to our hotel for dinner which featured very large entrecôte steaks.

A busy and energetic day but very enjoyable.

Thursday 20th July. Eurotunnel and Brugge

The alarm woke us at 05:45 and we were quickly up and on our way to Folkestone to catch Le Shuttle. We are visiting Herpen in the Netherlands via Brugge. Herpen is between S'Hertegenbosch and Nijmegen and we are attending the 50th Wedding Anniversary of our friends Tiki and Nolly who we met whilst living in Greece in 1980. Tiki is Greek Cypriot and Nolly is Dutch; they met whilst Tiki was doing some training in the Netherlands.

The first part of the journey was wet but relatively quiet and we arrived in Folkestone in time to have a quick coffee and pain chocolat before boarding the shuttle before the one we were booked on.

On the other side on the channel we had sporadic rain on the journey to Damme just north of Brugge where we are staying for two nights before heading off to Herpen

The area around Damme is cycling heaven particularly for the LLW who has a serious aversion to hills. Once checked in and unloaded we were quickly on our bikes and enjoying riding around the local canals and countryside. It really is very lovely here and I have never seen so many people of all ages on bikes before!

It rained quite the heavily for a short time and we became very wet. However the LLW was quickly pacified with warm apple tart with cream and ice cream at a local hostelerie.

Back to our hotel Ter Polders for a short rest before dinner which featured a huge warm Fruits de Mers with linguine. Excellent!

After our early start we were ready for an early night.