Saturday 16th.A much better morning that expected

We woke quite late for us and were delighted to see the garden bathed in sunshine! A much better start to the day than forecast and after a breakfast we will cycle to Ars-en-Re and then back via Saint Martin and La Flotte . The LLW demanded a small detour via the indoor market which Ray had spotted yesterday and what a great idea! As you can see from the photos below it was fantastic and as for the fish stalls;  well when did you last see such a wonderful display of fresh fish? We are both fish lovers and it is galling to see such a terrific display of fish here in Le Bois Plage when so often we struggle to find a good fish shop back home. The fish are from the same waters and indeed much of the shellfish comes from Scotland.

It was tempting to stay longer and to buy so much but sadly that would not work so we rode off north towards Ars-en-Re. It was a perfect day for cycling and being a weekend there were a lot of locals out and about. Being so near La Rochelle it must be a favourite pastime to come cycling for the day on the island and lunching at one of the many restaurants. We cycled past a few specialist oyster restaurants and they were all packed.

There were lots of white herons or ibis on the salt flats and certainly more than we have ever seen before.

We stopped for coffee in Ars and then rode back via the coastal route (north east side) to Saint Martin which was quite stunning. Saint Martin was busy as we expected and a lot of time was spent swerving to avoid pedestrians who seemed very keen to walk in front of us and inclined to change direction at the very last second. However we did manage to avoid them all!

We did not want much for lunch as we are booked in to the hotel restaurant for dinner tonight and that will not be a light meal. The LLW spotted a boulangerie/patisserie with tables outside and in a prime position and we enjoyed excellent quiches and a blackcurrant tart. just the thing!

The LLW decided that cycling on to La Flotte was one cycle too far  so we set off across the island and back to Le Bois Plage stopping for a while at the beautiful beach there which was looking glorious although certainly not busy. A few brave souls were swimming but all we managed to do was a brief paddle; must be getting soft!

Having cycled 21 miles the LLW enjoyed sitting and resting, in the sunshine, at this sheltered spot at the back of La Plage des Gollandieres

There w work to finish so Ray decided that having been denied a final visit to La Flotte he would cycle there and back whilst the LLW was otherwise engaged. Another 10 miles were completed encountering a very boisterous wedding party at la Flotte and braving a strong headwind on the way back.

Work is finished, the car is loaded ready for off early tomorrow, Newcastle have won 2-1 and are up to 4th in the Premiership. We are off to celebrate both the win and a very successful cycling holiday. Back to Blighty tomorrow via the Oustreham/Portsmouth ferry after a longish drive and we should be home around 22:15

Friday 15th; enjoying cycling on the Ile de Re

It was a beautiful morning with clear blue skies and much,much less wind that yesterday. We had a leisurely start to the day and then unfortunately the LLW had rather a lot of work to do so Ray went for a ride on his own to the north of the island. Firstly to Ars-en-Re and then on to Les Portes en Re and the lovely beaches (see photos below). It is a fascinating landscape very low lying with salt flats and lots of bird life. In the spring the avian attraction is the Avocets but they are now long gone and most of the salt pools were populated by white herons. A notable spot was a marsh harrier which flew past and then perched on a post. Back via La Coutarde and a total of 27.5 miles was recorded

The beach in the photos above in that of La Loge on the outskirts of Les Portes-en-Re. It looked wonderful in the brilliant sunshine but the temperature was still quite cool.

On arrival back at out Hotel Les Gollandieres, the LLW was almost finished with her documents and said that she had all of her men under control so was raring to go for a ride. The management committee was reconvened and it was decided that she must see the lovely beach at La Loge but the return ride there was a bit too far so the bikes were loaded on the car and off we drove to Ars-en-Re.  We parked and looked for somewhere to have lunch but sadly were too late for all of the restaurants which have set and limited hours out of season. Eventually we found a very small cafe which served baguettes and pizzas and plumped for the later. It transpired to be one of the best pizzas we have had and the LLW commented that she should have had one to herself rather than sharing!

Another look at the map and it was agreed that even starting at Ars-en-Re the round trip was a bit too far so we drove on to Saint Clement des Balleines and parked there. Off we cycled to Les Portes-en-Re via the coastal route i.e.through the salt flats and it was just perfect, sunny with a clear blue sky and even feeling quite warm at least whilst we were cycling. We sat of the beach for a few minutes and then went back through the village to pick up the Forest Route for our return to Saint Clement. Again very lovely and a complete contrast to the coastal route, the village was typical Ile-deRe and quite busy in the centre, then we cycled through the pine forest parallel to the northern coast of the island. We stopped briefly to admire the Plage de la Conche close to the lighthouse Phare des Balleines which is on the NW tip of the island and as you can see from the photos below starting to show signs of the Atlantic breakers which are typical of the western coast near Le Bois Plage. Back to the car and 9.5 miles completed in perfect cycling weather.

Just back at the hotel in time for a quick shower before dinner and the LLW decided that she did not want to drive into Saint Martin or La Flotte but would like to dine in our village. Tripadvisor was consulted and we soon had the number of a small restaurant in the village where we had eaten on previous visits. Les Q Salles was busy but service was friendly and prompt and very good steak and frites were consumed (after much discussion with the waitress about whether saignant meant rare or medium rare. It would seem that the french dictionary disagrees with the restaurant!) with a glass (or two) of an excellent Cote de Rousillon. Of course puddings followed and then back to our hotel with both of us feeling very tired. Crosswords were largely completed,Premier League football  checked via iPads and then we were asleep.

It has been the best day for weather so far and tomorrow is forecast to be fine but with white cloud.

Thursday 14th arrived on the Ile de Re

We were up early and breakfasted at 07:30 to get an early start on our journey to the Ile de Re. The rationale being that the weather forecast was good on the island until late afternoon so a cycle ride  was planned as soon as we arrive. The sun was shining  and we were soon on our way using D roads south and east until just after Niort where there was a short stretch of motorway leading up to the bridge from La Rochelle to the island. An easy journey and nothing of particularly note to report!

We arrived at about 11:40 and quickly set off on our ride. Previously we have only cycled to St Martin, La Flotte and the north end of the island so this time we headed south to Rivedoux Plage and St Marie via La Flotte where we sat by the beach and had our lunch.

We were amazed to see one brave chap swimming in the sea. As you all know we are keen swimmers in the sea but it was a bit chilly and windy for us.

Very good cycling at first with the wind behind us, level ground and a fairly warm sun. The LLW was not impressed when Rivedoux Plage did not possess an ice cream shop and was even less impressed when we headed north into the teeth of an Atlantic gale! I might exaggerate at little but it was a very strong wind and there as much huffing and puffing. After all of this exertion the LLW was determined not to miss out on her ice cream and we found an excellent provider in Bois Plage.

After a short rest and the LLW doing some more work we dined at out hotel and jolly good it was too! Tomorrow is set fair so we shall see how the legs feel when we get up.

Wednesday 13th, at Fontevraud II

It was cool cloudy and drizzly this morning and after a good breakfast the LLW had to deal with some clients. 

The Abbey at Fontevraud is very impressive and dates from the 12th century when it was founded by Robert of Arbrissel and where Henry II, Eleanor of Aquitaine and their son Richard the Lionheart were buried.

Ray was sent off for a cycle ride and as he unloaded the bike from the back of the BMW he could not help but notice that the BMW parked next to ours with a Belgian number plate was from the very same garage in Mechelen, Belgium where we bought ours all those years ago (2000). 

Once the ride was underway Ray, having entered a Zone Militaire, encountered dragons in the form of le deuxieme regiment de dragons of the French Army. He had strayed into the dragons car park and was told very politely but firmly to leave immediatement! Back then to Fontevrauld and Ray met a new girlfriend in the tourist information office! Actually I think she was so bored and I was probably the first visitor of the day that she was delighted to talk about the joys of cycling in the region and tasting the wines. With her good english and my rudimentary french we managed a very interesting conversation.

When I returned to the hotel, I was immediately dispatched to procure une grand creme

 The two photos above are of the Abbey itself and the one below is of the hotel which is within the grounds of the Abbey and directly faces it.

Lunch was once again lovely quiches and cakes from the local patisserie which was remarkably inexpensive for one in the middle of a very well visited tourist spot.

Next stop was Varrains where there were many vineyards and we plumped for Domiane de La Clos de Maurice for our tasting. Numerous wines were tasted and almost as many purchased. Our host was very charming and delighted in presenting his wines; a very nice experience.

On to Saumur which was slightly disappointing and we had planned a cycle ride along the banks of the Loire but it was windy, very grey and wet. The LLW put her foot down very firmly!

The nest priority was to refuel the BMW and petrol stations had been very elusive over the last day or so. Finally the WWN was persuaded to switch on the SatNav and ask it to direct us to the nearest petrol station. which transpired to be at an Intermarche hypermarket just 1 mile away.

We drove back along the Loire to Chinon and took the lift up to the castle to enjoy the views. A beer and glass of wine was now required so we could decide where to have dinner. This proved somewhat difficult and outside of the tourist season most restaurants were closed. Eventually we found a very nice creperie in Montsoreau where a very charming lady provided excellent fare for all and on her own.

Tuesday 12th. Bracieux to Fontevraud L'Abbaye

A fairly grey morning greeted us on Tuesday and the LLW had some more work to do before we headed off to our next stop of Fontevraud L'Abbaye where we have stayed once before. The plan was to visit a garden en route but sadly the LLW has mislaid the name and location of said garden which is a bit of a problem! I will report back on this issue later.

Yesterday evening we enjoyed a very good dinner at Le Rendez-vous des Gourmets in the centre of Bracieux. It was not our original intention to eat here but being Monday evening, much of Bracieux was ferme. However, it proved to be very enjoyable, busy and good value.

We are not in a hurry to reach Fontevraud so will probably take the scenic route relying upon the WWN to direct us via Tours-en-Sologne, Cheverny, along the banks of the Loire, skirting Tours and then via Chinon to Fontevraud

Once we arrive we plan a shortish cycle ride although we may have to start outside of Fontevraud since the LLW is very concerned about the closeness of contours around the Abbey. Again I will report on this later.

Coffees and croissants have been consumed in the communal area, shutting down the laptop is imminent and then we are on our way!

We chose a scenic route from Bracieux to Fontevraud and started via Tours-en-Sologne and Celletes towards Chaumont on the Loire.  About 15 minutes before reaching Chaumont we were rewarded by the sight of several wild boar running across the road in front of us. Sadly no camera was to hand but there appeared to be two adult females and about fourteen youngsters. They emerged from the field of wilting sunflowers on our right and quickly disappeared into the undergrowth on our left.

At Chaumont we crossed to the north bank of the Loire and had brilliant views of the Chateau at Chaumont and Amboise before crossing the Loire again at Tours to head south towards Chinon. Ray had decided that the area west of Chinon, between the Loire and Vienne rivers, appeared to be prime cycling territory so the management committee agreed to reconnoitre said area before attempting a ride. Well it was perfect; fairly flat with lots of pretty villages surrounded by vineyards and views of the Vienne river to boot! With the weather forecast set fair there was to time to lose in reaching our hotel , checking in and unleashing the bikes.

We parked outside a village called Beaumont-en-Veron which appeared to have several incarnations and rode off on one of many cycle tracks. It was delightful and we rode through villages, vineyards and river banks in fairly warm sunshine. Strangely we saw very few cyclist on the way out but on the return journey they were everywhere. We even met a couple of  Kiwis enjoying a cycling holiday in the Loire.

Back then to our hotel for a gourmet dinner and a fairly early night. Sadly the Lost Gardens of Loire were never found but the LLW was reasonably satisfied with a lovely cycle ride and a good dinner.

More about our overnight location in tomorrow's post

  

Monday 11th September

A bright sunny but cool morning greeted us and Ray was sent off on his bike to buy bread, pain au chocolat and replenish the dwindling kitty from an ATM. This was all quickly accomplished and I arrived back at the chalet to find eggs on the boil and coffee ready; excellent.

Originally we planned to cycle a route called the Fenetre Sur Loire which is a circular route passing through some villages on the south bank of the river and then inland to Chambord and back through the Parc de Chambord to the Loire. However, when we drove to the banks of the Loire we found the section along the river to be rather uninteresting, rununing through housing estates on the outskirts of various villages rather than along the river bank itself. It was also a rather long ride and the LLW was making noises about having overdone the exercise yesterday.

So plan B was implemented! Back to the chalet and cycle from there to Chambord and spend more time in the Parc de Chambord. This was an inspired decision and the ride through the forest was sheltered from an increasing wind. Chambord was strangely quiet and we were able to cycle all around the huge building without encountering too many dodgy pedestrians.


A light lunch at a cafe outside the Chateau and right next to a hotel we stayed at a few years ago ( being renovated and extended) and we headed back to Bracieux the LLW declaring that enough miles had been completed today.

Sunday 10th - exploring the area.

Sunday dawned cool, cloudy by dry and there was a great debate about which ride to attempt today. One under consideration was a there and back ride along both banks of the Loire. However, it was eventually agreed that this might be too long and rather exposed given the weather. Instead we decided upon one of the recommended Chateau au Velos rides through the Sologne.

After breakfast the LLW had some work to do so Ray was dispatched to procure some provisions. Knowing the LLW very well, Ray realised that said work would take longer than forecast so set off on a 9 mile ride through the Foret Domaniale de Boulogne to the village of Neuvy and then south to return to Bracieux close to the southern bank of the Beuvron river.

The LLW had hardly noticed I had gone but was soon finished with her documents and we prepared for our ride through the Sologne.

Initially we headed north towards Chambord and deep into the aforementioned Foret before turning east. Sadly we did not see any signs of the many wild boar that live in this area but the cycling was easy and once we warmed up the temperature seem quite pleasant. We turned south and through the village of Neuvry, where Ray had been a couple of hours earlier, and on to Bauzy and then east through the heart of the etangs area to Fontaines-en-Sologne. Between Bauzy and Fontaine we passed several etangs and a very elegant private chateau called the Chateau de la Raviniere.

En route we had planned to have lunch in one of these villages but sadly all were devoid of any restaurant or cafe. On our way back to Bracieux we climbed a long but slight incline and arrived at Montgenet and a very nouveau riches mansion. Ray pronounced the owner to be a Maize Magnate evidenced by the fields of sweetcorn surrounding said mansion.

Once back in Bracieux and pulled up outside the cafe du commerce to find it overrun with drivers and passengers of classic cars who were doing the 2017 Tour du Loire. The restaurant had catered for around a hundred and were not able to offer us a full meal but did produce three very good desert cakes!

After just over 19 miles we were back at our chalet and decided upon a glass of wine and some excellent cheese that we had bought the previous day. You might say that it was entirely in the wrong order to eat desert and then cheese whilst in France but we didn't care and it turned out to very good cheese. Both were goats cheeses - one tres fraiche and the other tres sec which provided an excellent contrast. The tres sec was hard and very strong and the tres fraiche milder and soft.

The LLW had some more documents to embrace so Ray was sent off on another ride this time to the Chateau of Chambord about 5.5 miles north. As I left I could have sworn that I heard the LLW singing a version of one of John Storey's songs which went something like:

"Dear Document, kiss your sisters for me so they won't feel alone

Email me and tell me how the legal fees have grown

Tell me oh tell me how the legal fees have grown"

(Legal disclaimer: The views expressed in the above blatant plagiarism of  John Storey's excellent song Dear Molly are accepted as untrue and definitely not representative of the opinions of the LLL (lovely lady lawyer))

Those of you who would like to listen to the original and much better version of Dear Molly can find it on John's excellent album More Storey Lines

Off then to Chambord and what a delightful ride through the Foret and arriving with a stunning view of this biggest and most elaborate of the Chateau of the Loire. As I stopped to admire the view I discovered that the participants in the Toure du Loire were here as well and all the cars were parked either side of the main driveway in front of the Chateau.

Back to Bracieux for a quick swim in the heated pool and then supper which was one of the LLW's holiday specials tuna fish salad. We learned that Newcastle had won 1-0 at Swansea so celebrated with another glass or so of Saumur

Saturday 9th August

We were awoken about 06:00 French time and just had time for a quick cafe creme and a croissant before heading below decks to find our car.

Disembarking was very efficient and we were soon on our way south to the Loire Valley. Having two bikes on the back we had opted for the easy option of using the autoroutes for most of the journey.  Alencon and Le Mans were quickly passed by and we then chose D roads to cut across country towards Blois. The LLW decreed that a coffee stop was required but sadly the chosen stopping off point Saint-Calais was remarkably devoid of suitable coffee shops. However, there was the most wonderful patisserie and having marvelled at the displays we settled on two pain au chocolat which were quite simply the best we have ever tasted. The LLW quickly got over her lack of coffee and waxed lyrical about aforementioned pastries.

We had plenty of time to spare so decided  upon a second stop at Vendome. We had driven past Vendome on many occasions and apart from associating it with the Place in Paris, we knew little about the town. What a revelation! It was certainly a Ville Fleury, there were numerous lovely  medieval buildings and there was a real buzz about the place. Luckily an acceptable coffee place was found and two grande cremes ordered.

On our way again and very shortly we arrived at our chalet on the outskirts of Bracieux. We knew that we were too early to check in so unloaded the bikes and off we cycled to explore the area to the west of Bracieux. We cycled along close to the northern ban of the Beuvron river and soon passed by the very grand Chateau de Villesavin and across the river to Tour-en-Sologne. The track turned south and we encountered the first of the Etanges which are strewn across the area known as the Sologne. At one junction we found a sign explaining that in the Middle Ages this track was used to drive cattle from Poitiers to Paris; not many people know that!

Through the first area and back to Bracieux we cycled through the town spotting boulangeries and restaurants before returning to Huttopia des Chateau the site of our chalet. All was ready now and we were soon settled in and sort of organised! The weather is currently mixed and not warm but better is forecast for tomorrow.

After a rest we headed into town for an evening meal and decided upon the Cafe du Commerce where we were greeted warmly by the owner and were offered an eat as much as you like buffet for €17 each. This buffet consisted of hors douvres, main course, cheese and two deserts. It was very good but we skipped the cheese as there was too much and the LLW was a bit grumpy because she was not offered any of my excellent chocolate moussse. All in all it cost us the princely sum of €45 including wine.

Now very tired we retired to our chalet and knew nothing more until 07:30 the next morning. Photos will be added later once the wi-fi is sorted out.

Friday 8th August. Off to the Portsmouth to Caen ferry

We are booked on the 22:45 overnight ferry from Portsmouth to Ouistreham which is the port that serves Caen in Normandy. It is an awful evening and the rain is lashing down. Luckily we saw the weather forecast and packed the car and loaded the bikes on the carrier in between the showers or should I say storms!

We ate an early supper as the LLW was determined to go straight to bed as soon as we boarded the ferry and found our cabin. Leaving at 20:15 gave us plenty of time to refuel the car on the way and arrive at Portsmouth on time.

It really was an awful evening and as we waited to board the ferry we watched several others who were off for a cycling holiday board the ferry looking wet and bedraggled! Or admiration went out to these intrepid travellers who were not only cycling in France but had cycled to Portsmouth in the most atrocious weather.

This is our first specific cycling holiday overseas and after much debate we agreed to go for three different centres, Bracieux, Fontevraud L'Abbe and Le Bois Plage and cycle circular routes at each place. The first two destinations are in the Loire valley and the third on the Il de Re. These were carefully chosen because a) the LLW does not like hills and b) circular routes meant if it really was an awful day we had the option of not cycling. The key was to avoid days when you had to get from A to B whatever the weather.

The ferry was boarded fairly swiftly and the LLW was soon enjoying her beauty sleep.