Autumn in the Lakes

We spend a delightful weekend with Hilton and Anne in the Lake District and saw the area at its Autumn best

A lovely walk around Buttermere was cold and at times wet  but in between the showers we were treated to some stunning views

 While Anne headed off to play the organ at church Hilt decided to test our climbing mettle with a gentle stroll up Little Mell Fell. Fabulous views all around with the fells topped with snow

Later we enjoyed a leisurely stroll around Brotherswater

Wednesday 18th. Lovely villages around Bayeux and ferry back from Ouistreham

Poor weather as we left Cancale but as we came close to Bayeux it improved and we left the Route Nationale, put down the roof and enjoyed a leisurely drive through some lovely villages around Bayeux including Cerisy la Foret and Le Molay Littry.

We had stayed at the Hotel Du Commerce in the latter village many years ago with Hilda, Sadie and Elsie whilst visiting Bayeux and the Tapestry. The LLW never ceases to remind me that on one occasion I was determined to eat out (I'm not normally a fan of eating in hotels) only to be persuaded otherwise and we had the best Cote de Boeuf ever - well what do I know!

Bayeux was out lunchtime stop and we enjoyed  a wander around the town which is as lovely as ever

We still had plenty of time before our ferry so meandered through the countryside and stopped at a lovely village called Creully which had a beautifully restored castle.

Tuesday 17th Cancale

Whilst we very much enjoyed our visit to the Ile de Re, the weather could have been better and as we set out to drive north to Cancale there was little sign of improvement. Again top up on the car we made use of the almost traffic free and expensive autoroutes arriving in Cancale at lunchtime. It was raining oysters! Nothing to do but find a pleasant creperie where we could shelter from the rain.

We settled into our very nice B&B Le Chatellier,  where we had stayed once before and the LLW had remembered that an excellent restaurant at the Manoir des Douets Fleuris was attached (or to be more accurate just down the field) and we had booked this for our evening meal. Ray's starter was an assiette de fruit de mer which was more like a plateau and included half a crab. This small apertiser was followed by an excellent cassoulet de rognons de veau and all was well with the world.

Definitely the best meal of our holiday.

Monday 16th

It started out bright and sunny but after a coffee and a stroll around La Flotte the clouds were gathering and we decided to drive around parts of the island that we had not seen before.

In particular we enjoyed our visit to the ruined Cistercian Abbey of Les Chateliers

Sunday 15th - the sun comes out

Sunday was bright and sunny so it was clearly the day for cycling and these are now available for hire at Les Gollandiers so off we set to the north of the Island.

It was a brilliant day and we cycled for hours stopping at Ars for a lunch by the beach and then returning via St Martin. Ray had decided to annoy the locals by wearing his Vini D'Italia t-shirt.

Overall we cycled some 40Km but since it is very flat this didn't seem that hard and we had a great day.

Saturday 14th Ile de Re in the rain!

Saturday morning dawned wet and grey but undeterred we headed off to La Flotte and the excellent market which was as usual very busy and full of excellent produce.

After braving the elements for some time we decided that there was nothing for it but to have a long lunch! So off we went to Ars en Re where there is a very nice restaurant which was called Bistrot de Bernard but is now known as Bistrot Bene.

The lunch was excellent and served by a very friendly older gentleman who was absolutely charming.. After lunch we dodged the showers during a walk around Ars but it was clear that the weather was not about to improve so we headed back to out hotel to relax and read.

Friday 13th Off to the Ile de Re

We set off bright and early for the longest drive of the holiday from Mauroux to le Bois Plage on the Ile de Re. Initially the roads were very busy and the weather was mixed so we decided to put the roof up and get onto the autoroute toute suite! 

As many of you will know we have been to the Ile de Re several times and we love it! There is something about the wild sandy, dune encircled, beaches on the western side and the sheltered harbours surrounded by restaurants on the eastern side which has lasting appeal. 

Thursday 12th Le Gindreau and the Lot Valley

As planned on the Thursday morning we visited the vineyards of Chateau Latuc and enjoyed a very warm welcome. Unfortunately we had to limit ourselves to 3 bottles of wine since the Mazda, great car that it is, does not have a commodious boot!

After the vineyard we headed off for lunch at Le Gindreau, a Michelin starred restaurant in St Medard a Catus which we had first visited in 1977 shortly after it had opened. When it first opened it was good but very "paysanne"; since winning a Michelin star probably about 20 years ago now it has been very plush and on the number of occassions we have visited it has been very good. However, the original owner and chef has now retired and I'm afraid the food is not what is was; too fussy and too many contracting flavours. We had a good meal but both felt that it had gone downhill significantly.

After a good walk around the village we returned to Mauroux for a quiet late afternoon and evening. As we both said we could return to the Lot valley many times; its lovely.

Wednesday 11th Along the Lot valley to Mauroux

The next morning we headed into the centre again searching for the market, but it was nowhere to be found -at least initially.   We had not had breakfast at the hotel and stopped at a cafe near the Pont Valentre for a coffee and bread and some delicious jams (fraise and fig)    We asked our waiter about the market and indeed it was on and we had simply missed it because it was not where we expected to find it.   Having checked with the blackberry and complete with the assurance of our waiter  that it was only 10 minutes walk, we headed off and found it in the cathedral square.  In France as all lovers of the country will know the market is the place to buy food and it is easy to be tempted. Amazing to find a Poissonnerie as good as this so far from the sea.

After visiting the market the sun had come out and we were treated to wonderful views of the Pont Valentre before heading off west along the Lot valley.

The views along the valley were wonderful overlooking numerous meanders of the river and acres of vineyards on the other side.

We then headed north to the hamlet of Lherm where out much missed friend Cecil lived for a while in the mid 1970s. Rosemary and I have great memories of visiting Lherm when it really was a tumble down but oh so atmospheric french country hamlet. When we visited again some 5 years ago we found the place to be full of Polish registration cars and it was clear that most of the properties had been bought by Brits, Germans, Dutch and/or Scandinavians. They have moved in the Polish builders to renovate everything. It is now immaculate and the buildings have been beautifully renovated. However, it's almost too pristine and has lost some of the rural charm. This is a little odd because much of the Lot valley (unlike the Dordogne) has changed very little in 30+ years.

We were staying for rue second and third nights in the Lot at a place in the countryside about 40 minutes from Cahors.  It was a charming Logis, Hostellerie Le Vert just outside Mauroux.  It the garden there must have been about 10 fig trees al laden with fruit, several so full and ripe that the ground underneath was full of squashed fruit.   The weather was sunny that afternoon and we took a dip in the pool before dinner which was a very pleasant 3 course meal of terrine of foie gras/lobster ravioli, veal and a chocolate desert for Le Monsieur and a crumble of greengages for the LLW.

We also had a delicious bottle of wine from Chateau Latuc  a vineyard about a kilometre away and determined to look them up e next day.